Vancouver’s chefs have recently shed the yoke of Canadian cookery for a new regional cuisine based on the province’s abundant organic produce, seafood, game, and yes, British Columbian wines. Salmon is ubiquitous (wild and rare is preferred) but have a look out for some lesser-known local catches such as halibut cheeks and sablefish.

Top choices include the waterfront seafood restaurant C (1600 Howe Street, V6Z 2L9, +16046811164, www.crestaurant.com), the resolutely regional West (2881 Granville Street, V6H 3J4, +16047388938, www.westrestaurant.com), the French-leaning Lumière (2551 West Broadway, V6K 2E9, +16047398185, www.lumiere.ca) and its more casual cousin Feenie's (2563 West Broadway, V6K 2E9, +16047397115).

For real local roots, Liliget Feast House (1724 Davie Street, V6G 1W2 +16046817044, www.liliget.com) serves a traditional Northwest Coast First Nations menu of alder-grilled salmon, venison strips and mussels.

Vancouver’s large Cantonese population has set the bar high for Chinese food, whether it’s dim sum, seafood, or fine dining. Try Imperial Chinese Seafood (355 Burrard Street, V6C 2G6, +16046888191) for the views; Sun Sui Wah (3888 Main Street, V5V 3N9, +16048728822) for an authentic Hong Kong-style dim sum, or Hon’s Wun-Tun House (1339 Robson Street, V6E 1C6, +16046850871, and 268 Keefer Street, V6A 1X5, +16046880871) for a cheap and comforting bowl of noodles.

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