Despite a Mittel-European edge to Verona’s architecture, ancient Rome is the underlying presence. The Arena (Piazza Brà, 045 800 3204) is the most obvious sign of the ancients, dominating the entrance to the thumb-shaped old town in piazza Brà. The largest Roman amphitheatre in northern Italy, the Arena was capacious enough to seat the city’s whole population of 20,000 when it was constructed in about AD 30 from pink marble quarried from nearby hills. After the earthquake of 1117 destroyed most of the Arena’s outer ring, the city repaired the damage almost immediately. Verona’s later Venetian overlords – recognising the historic and thus financial value of the building – made it illegal to pilfer the ancient stone, and carried out regular maintenance work, thus ensuring that the Arena has remained in good shape.

The old town, framed by the serpentine Adige River, stretches out from piazza Brà. A short distance north-west, by Ponte Scagliero, is the Castelvecchio (‘old castle’) of Verona’s della Scala family, the medieval rulers. In keeping with many other Italian rulers over the centuries, the della Scalas invested in magnificent art, thick walls and an escape route – Ponte Scagliero – over the river. The other bridge, the Ponte Pietra, dates to Roman times. Both were destroyed by retreating Germans in 1945 and were carefully restored after the war. Today the castle holds a museum (045 806 2611), with works by Pisanello, Veronese and Tintoretto, medieval frescoes and sculptures, and weapons and jewellery.

The heart of the city is formed by the adjoining squares piazza delle Erbe and piazza dei Signori, a short walk north-east from piazza Brà. Once the site of the Roman forum, piazza delle Erbe is today the site of a somewhat tacky food and souvenir market (Mon-Sat mornings) but is surrounded by magnificent buildings. The adjoining piazza dei Signori was the centre for medieval Verona’s finance and government.

A detour south-east from piazza delle Erbe along via Cappello leads to the Casa di Giulietta (Juliet’s house). The Capulet family of Romeo and Juliet fame did exist, although they never lived in the building now called Casa Giulietta (via Cappello 23, 045 803 4303). Still, tourists fill the small courtyard, gazing at a balcony, which was actually erected in the 1920s to give them all something to see. The house can be toured, if only for the chance to step on to the balcony and stare back. Romeo’s house – which may have actually belonged to the Montague family – is not open to the public; it’s just across from the della Scala tombs at Arche Scaligere 4. Of the many churches in Verona, the most atmospheric isn’t the cathedral, but San Zeno Maggiore (piazza San Zeno, 045 800 6120). Built in the 12th century to house the remains of African St Zeno, Verona’s first bishop and patron saint, its graceful nave is a swirl of marble sculptures and frescoes.

• Tourist information: via degli Alpini 9, piazza Brà (045 806 8680, www.tourism.verona.it).