For traditional Viennese food visit Reinthaler (Gluckgasse 5, 512 3366), just behind the Opera, or the more innovative Gasthaus Wild (Radetskyplatz 3, 920 9477). Vegetarians have a tough time but St Josef (Mondscheingasse 10, 526 6818), a fully organic restaurant a with shop, compensates. Serious foodies can hit Vienna’s foremost gastro temple, Steirereck (Im Stadtpark, 713 3168), or the Michelin-starred designer Italian, Fabios (Tuchlauben 6, 532 2222).

Vienna grows more wine within its boundaries than any city in the world. In summer, head towards the village of Grinzing (tram 37) for tart young white wine at Heuriger (wine restaurants), such as Zawodsky (Reinischgasse 3, 3207978) or Weingut Reisenberg (Oberer Reisenbergweg 15, 3209393).

Of all the classic Viennese coffee houses, check out Café Sperl (Gumpendorfer Strasse 11, 586 4158) or Café Prückel (Stubenring 24, 512 6115). Coffee, however, is far superior at the renovated 1950s Espresso (Burggasse 57, 5268951).

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