A short stretch of Stomorica, behind the south quay, is lined with tiny bars. Kantun (No.5) is the centre of the alternative music scene, although you could make a case for Lotus alongside. Others may prefer the trendier Kult nearby.

At the other end of the Old Town, by Five Wells, the passageway Poljana Pavla Pavlovica off Rudjera Boskovica houses the white, minimalist DJ bar Space Lab (023 301 310) and the smart Coffee Lounge (023 318 870), pointing to the burgeoning of a bar hub in the student quarter.

The current nexus of nightlife centres around Three Wells. Here in the Venetian walls is Brit-run DJ terrace The Garden (Liburnska obala 6, 023 364 739, www.thegarden zadar.com), whose success after two summers has put Zadar on the map; and the Arsenal (Trg Tri bunara 1, www.arsenalzadar.com), a music stage, gallery, bar and restaurant in a historic building almost next door.

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