The Kornat (Liburnska obala 6, 023 254 501) is as good as you'll find in town, where truffles are used in sauces to garnish the stand-out monkfish, and dry porcini mushrooms to help flavour the steak. A little further out, the Lungo Mare (Obala kneza Trpimira 23, 023 331 533/091 1692 335 mobile) has a terrace overlooking Drazenica Bay, fresh seafood and the best wine list in town. Café culture is best enjoyed on the Forum, although the elegant coffeehouses of yesteryear along the south quay were lost to Allied bombs. Just off the main square, Djina (Varoska 2) is a little gallery bar where a trendy crowd gathers by day to drink fruit tea, the electronic musical backdrop increasing as the night wears on.

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