Nothing reflects Zagreb's rapid gentrification more than its shopping scene. Three businesses stand out in particular: I-GLE, flagship of local designers Martina Vrdoljak Ranilović and Nataša Mihaljčišin who stock their menswear at Victor, the region's first concept store; and Gharani Štrok, an established global brand at the forefront of the pret-à-porter. All are Croatian, all have key stores in Zagreb's city centre.

The other main name in the world of local fashion design is Sinha-Stanić. The big hit at London Fashion Week in 2005, British-born Fiona Sinha and Aleksandar Stanić from Zagreb met at St Martin's College, joined forces in 2004 and such was the reception for their first collection at Fashion Fringe that prestigious Italian luxury goods company AEFFE signed them up. On sale at London's Selfridges and Harvey Nichols, they're tipped to be the next big thing.

Kathy Balogh (Radićeva 22, +14813290, 8am-noon, 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) is avant-garde of the old school, but reliably challenging, and always likely to surprise you. Leonarda L (Gajeva 9, +14875045, 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) is unusual in that it's run by the wife of star footballer Zvonimir Boban, but whose designs are tasteful, more bohemian than bling.

Croata is the renowned brand of handmade silk ties, their heritage dating back to the very origins of the word 'cravat'. Neckties à la croate became chic in 17th-century France after being worn by Croatian soldiers. The Croata company has nine branches across the country, including two in Zagreb.

Ilica is the traditional hub of Zagreb's shopping scene. Today the little shopfronts of its two-storey houses contain Mango, Lush and local fashion stores Image Haddad (No.6, +14831035) and Heruc Galerija (No.26, +14833569) beside shops unchanged since 1978. Off Ilica, Frankopanska is Zagreb's exclusive shopping street. Here you find upmarket outlets such as Lacoste and Diesel as well as Gaultier, Galliano and Moschino. Shoe shops include many UK and European high-street brands.

The recently opened Centar Kaptol (www.centarkaptol.hr), past the cathedral on Nova Ves, is as posh as any shopping mall gets in Zagreb. This is where you'll find the likes of Marks & Spencer, Paul & Shark Yachting and Hugo Boss.

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