For a wonderful lake view, eat at Blu (Seestrasse 457, 488 6565, www.blu-restaurant.ch), serving excellent Italian seafood. Kronenhalle (Rämistrasse 4, 262 9900) is a local institution; founded in 1921, it has served hefty Swiss fare to the likes of Brecht and Stravinsky, and the walls are covered in art by masters like Picasso, Braque and Matisse. Even in pricey Zürich cheapish deals can be found at lunchtime, when pubs and beer halls serve a lower-priced Tagesmenü. Adler’s Swiss Chuchi (Rosengasse 10, 266 9666) reputedly serves up the best fondue in town, while Zeughauskeller (Bahnhofstrasse 28a, 211 2690) is a chaotic beer hall serving bullish meat dishes. Another old stalwart is the art nouveau Café Odeon (Limmatquai 2, 251 1650), where Mussolini once knocked back a beer.

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