If you're looking to splash out, Ai Gondolieri offers a creative menu that belies its ultra-traditional decor and service. It's also, unusually for Venice, fish-free. Rooted in the culinary traditions of north-east Italy, dishes include a warm salad of venison with blueberries, panzerotti (pasta parcels) filled with Jerusalem artichokes in Montasio cheese sauce, and pork fillet in pear sauce with wild fennel. Enquire about the price before tasting truffle delights in autumn. The Gondoliers are surprisingly strong on vegetarian dishes.