Krivi Put - © Antonija Butkovic/Time Out
For a decade the soul of alternative Zagreb hovered above a former warehouse at Runjaninova 3, home to the first incarnation of the Mo_vara club in 1999 and subsequently taken over by Krivi put ('Wrong Direction'), a gritty post-grunge speakeasy whose yard filled up nightly with just about everyone in the city who didn't feel like hanging around in mainstream café-bars listening to top-40 hits. Krivi put moved out of Runjaninova in August 2010 (where it was replaced by a kitschy disco club that soon closed its doors), reopening just over a year later in this new location within staggering distance of Zagreb University's Student Centre. The place has effortlessly picked up where it left off: the interior is a constant den of smoke and people shouting to be heard above indie-rock tunes, the yard is packed with enough wooden benches to accommodate several hundred at a time. The recipe remains simple - good music, cheap beer (including cult-brew Velebitsko pivo), and a broadly unorthodox clientele that ensures that you're always bumping into someone unexpected.