Who would have thought that the culinary hit of winter 2011/2012 would have been a humble bowl of soup? The idea behind Ćušpajz ('Broth') is certainly a simple one - the changing menu consists of three soups a day (at least one of which is vegetarian), all priced at 38kn. Served in a reasonably big bowl, each soup is garnished with a dainty salad on a stick, a dash of sour cream, a sprinkling of pumpkin seeds, and a hunk of good bread on the side. And it is invariably delicious. It's the brainchild of Leonarda Boban (wife of Croatian footballing legend Zvonimir Boban), although Ćušpajz is anything but the kind of place you would expect to encounter a party of WAGs.