Purgeraj is as solid and diverse a club - in the heart of the Ribnjak Park - as there is in town. Good news: it is also walking distance from Jelačić, which saves you the cab fare and allows you to sober up with the trot home as the sun comes up. In the week live rock, blues and groove groups take to the stage. Thursdays is long-running indie-pop night 'Take Me Out'; while on Fridays, a DJ spins '80s and punk, and on Saturdays, it's funky disco. The interior, recently renovated, is full of great black-and-white photos of seminal Croatian acts that have graced the stage. There are also framed album covers hinting to the establishment's eclectic vibe: Janis, the Beatles, Johnny Winter, Santana. Half the place is a decent-sized, rectangular dance floor, the other a bamboo-clad bar area facing the park and Purgeraj's terrace. The cover charge at weekends is around 15kn. Go with a group and share the rack of 12 test-tube liquor shots.