Glass

Inside a brutalist apartment building at the top end of Uhlandstrasse, Gal Ben-Moshe has been spinning straw into culinary gold. The Israeli-born chef cut his chops under two of molecular gastronomy’s leading lights, Claudi Bosi at Hibiscus and Grant Achatz of Alinea, the menu here reflecting the movement’s playful use of science to alter taste perceptions. The black dining room is dominated by a central space walled off by undulating reflective silver fabric, which conceals a compact kitchen from which impeccably plated dishes of surprising flavour combinations emerge. Starters come impaled on smoking cinnamon sticks; soups are adorned with savoury sorbets and most impressively, the showpiece ‘Candybox’ dessert re-imagines the staff’s favourite childhood sweets – there’s Snickers snow, passion fruit Gummy Bears, popping candy and a flash-frozen chocolate mousse, all served directly onto the table. Choose from two rotating tasting menus, of which one is refreshingly vegan, a lifestyle choice often hard done by in the haute cuisine world.