Reflecting chef Charles Draghi’s steadfast belief in letting key ingredients speak for themselves, the handwritten menu reads like an ode to the Earth’s bounty: parsnip gnocchi in wild-boar ragu here; a salad of escarole and arugula with pears in pistachio-ginger dressing there; roasted meats in the vegetable-, fruit- and jus-based sauces he calls succos, mostos and leccos everywhere. Accompanied by gracious sommelier/co-owner Joan Johnson’s sparkling wine list (the restaurant’s named for a white Piedmontese varietal), it makes for an experience that’s no less exhilarating for being so restful.
69 Church St
|Cross street:||at Piedmont St|
|Opening hours:||Tue-Thu, Sun 5-10pm; Sat, Sun 5-11pm|