The site of one of Keith Floyd’s former bistros is now in the safe hands of Liberty Wenham and Seldon Curry. The pair met while working for British chef Mark Hix, and have experience alongside the likes of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Rowley Leigh.
Located within spitting distance of the Clifton Suspension Bridge, Wallfish is surprisingly large inside, with a downstairs dining room that’s about twice the size of the upstairs area that’s visible from the street. Finishing touches include fish-shaped water bottles and lampshades made from colanders, while the wine list is one that Floyd himself would have approved of – criss-crossing the globe from Lebanon to Argentina. You can even bring your own bottle on a Wednesday.
The menu here is fiercely local, making the most of the West Country larder for the most part. Exceptions include the royal rock oysters (£2.50 each), from Portland off the coast of Dorset, and the baked snails with garlic butter (six for £7.50), sourced from Herefordshire. As Wallfish is an ancient name for snails, you’d expect nothing but the finest quality.
Seafood features strongly on a menu that changes daily; if you’re lucky enough to see the lobster and rabbit pie (£18), make sure you don’t miss out on one of the best dishes in town.