Café Martinho da Arcada

This establishment began life in 1782 as a shop selling drinks and ice. The café and adjacent restaurant it was to become were two of poet Fernando Pessoa's favourite haunts. A few tables in the restaurant (main courses €15-€24) are now also reserved for living greats, such as painter Júlio Pomar. The café is worth a stop for the renowned pastéis de nata. The terrace is beset by exhaust fumes.