Mesa de Frades

This azulejo-lined former chapel of the Quinta da Dona Rosa, a palace built by Dom João V for one of his lovers, is owned by guitarra-player Pedro de Castro. It has a reputation as the fadistas' canteen, and you never know who might roll up in the wee hours and do an impromptu performance. The food is Portuguese, prettified - bacalhau com natas with parmesan and the like - but really not up to the quality of the fado. Booking is a must for dinner. If you drop in later (and can squeeze in) there's no minimum spend.