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After a £40 million revamp, the Grade II-listed Old Street magistrates’ court and police station has been transformed into a second branch of the Courthouse Hotel.
Clearly keen to capitalise on the building’s heritage, the restaurant – housed in the old courtroom – has been decked out with courthouse memorabilia and the walls are lined with paintings of a bizarre selection of celebrities as court judges (the motley crew includes Ray Winstone, Paloma Faith and Martine McCutcheon). It’s a bit tacky, which is a shame given the site’s history – Ronnie and Reggie Kray appeared here at their first criminal hearing in 1965.
The atmosphere was a little lacking, too. There were only four tables occupied on a Friday night, yet somehow the lamb rump on the menu (one of the better sounding options) wasn’t available. I opted for a monkfish curry instead, but the fish was dry, and the sauce was overpowered by spice and lacked depth of flavour. Better was the slow-cooked pork belly starter, served with a squash purée, though the skin could have been crisper. It was all a bit underwhelming and overpriced (£4.95 for steamed rice!).
In an area saturated with places to eat, the Judge & Jury is best placed as a convenient stop-off for hotel guests, but little else.