Bars and pubs, Gastropubs Kentish Town
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  • 4 out of 5 stars
(6user reviews)
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One of the Real Pubs stable, the Oxford is clearly thriving, packed out on a Sunday lunchtime with big parties enjoying hearty roasts or choosing from a menu of posh gastropub fare. Dark grey walls, dark wood furniture and a dramatic oversized chandelier add up to a stylish interior. Staff were pleasant enough, but too rushed – it can take a while to order and get a drink – one of 20 or so wines by the glass, or a pint of Camden Town Brewery’s Camden Hells lager, perhaps.

The food can also be a bit hit and miss. Mussels came in a sauce where any hint of cider was overpowered by cream, but a plate of Spanish charcuterie with toasted Poilâne, cornichons and caperberries was fantastic: generous piles of chorizo, lean, chewy and intensely flavoursome lomo and deliciously salty jamón.

Inconsistency continued with the mains – pork, leek and ham hock pie with spring greens had a light shortcrust pastry lid covering a lip-smacking and moist filling, while a generous, well-grilled sea bass fillet on confit onion and fennel was again drowned by an excessively creamy sauce. Perfect fat chips did a lot to ease the pain. Lemon tart with undercooked pastry wasn’t a touch on the M&S version. Truly a mixed bag.



Venue name: Oxford
Address: 256 Kentish Town Rd
Opening hours: noon-11.30pm Mon, Tue; noon-midnight Wed-Sat; noon-10.30pm Sun. Lunch served noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm Sat. Dinner served 6-10pm Mon-Wed; 6-10.30pm Thur-Sat. Meals served noon-10pm Sun
Transport: Tube: Kentish Town
Price: Main courses £11-£15
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