Bobbin

In a quiet residential street not far from Clapham Common, Bobbin is an appealing neighbourhood gastropub. It has a changing rota of proper ales (perhaps St Austell Tribute or something from Sambrooks), good wines by the glass, a cosy front room, and an airy conservatory at the rear.

The menu’s the main focus, with typical gastropub dishes done well. Our ribeye steak (£17.50) was well-hung, tender and grilled correctly rare as requested; the chips were of the chunky, skin-on type, and the salsa verde added kick.

Vegetarian options are unusually well-considered, from beetroot risotto in small or main course portions, or potato gnocchi which was rich in gorgonzola sauce and liberally garnished with pine nuts and parmesan (both £8 starter/£11 main).  

The desserts look particularly tempting (for example the sticky toffee pudding with ginger ice-cream), but our main courses were so filling we didn’t have room.  

Customers popping in for a coffee are just as welcome as diners. Fresh flowers decorate the bar, and the service is just as sunny.