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From the outside, set on a busy traffic bridge, this looks like an archetypal JAG (Just Another Gastropub) makeover. Head through the pub to the terrace, though, and the scenery changes completely: table after table after table beneath large black umbrellas, all overlooking the slow-flowing canal. This terrace is the Grand Union’s greatest asset, to be sure.
However, the interior is also attractive, done out with post-war propaganda photographs of the catering and drinking industries. There’s enough chat-level indie din to bring in the twentysomethings, but there are couple-friendly low brown sofas in the street-level main bar area.
The beers are decent – Litovel, San Miguel and Becks Vier alongside Fuller’s ales – although there are few surprises in the cocktail or wine lists.
There are gastro-standard mains; the highlight of the food menu is the dozen mix and match tapas plates. Not such a JAG after all.