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Please note, this branch of Breddos Tacos has now closed. Time Out Food editors, OCTOBER 2019.
Plot twist: the best thing to eat at Breddos Tacos in Soho is not a taco. It’s elote, aka grilled corn. Pretty rogue from a restaurant that has quite literally made its name with tacos. Served in a pale earthenware bowl with two round tortilla chips perched on top like little ears, the first surprise was that this dish was tantalisingly sour. Cut through with smoky chilli mayonnaise and sharp Montgomery’s cheddar, it also had a buttery, almost meaty twang – all the more alluring because it’s actually vegetarian.
The next best thing was the vibe. It’s a narrow, atmospheric space. I went on a Monday lunchtime and it felt like Friday (think great music and unabashed day-drinking). The crab and bone marrow nachos, topped with a raw egg yolk, were another hit (even if the spicing was a tad overpowering).
And the tacos? Don’t get me wrong, they’re impressive. Breddos’s ‘thing’ is creativity – I tried the signature masa fried chicken (fried bird in a taco!), but while the filling was generous, there wasn’t quite enough of the tangy condiments to give it much oomph. The baja fish taco had similar issues – Breddos just needs to up its sauce game. It’s an easy fix. Still, the ceviche was off-the-clock excellent – hot and zingy and sweet in all the right ways – and service was properly charming. Breddos: you’re brilliant.