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If Chez Bruce were a jacket it would be a well-cut blazer – not especially original, but stylish, tasteful, classic and totally dependable. Bruce Poole’s gaff may have a Michelin gong to its name, but it’s still Wandsworth’s favourite neighbourhood restaurant – a place where you can enjoy polished French-inspired food without the fawning service or killer prices of some other lauded establishments. Expect gutsy, big-boned seasonal flavours ranging from deep- fried calf’s brains with sauce gribiche, morteau sausage and celeriac to roast cod with olive- oil mash, Provençal vegetable relish, grilled leeks and monk’s beard. The cheeseboard is one of London’s great whiffy treasures, and the stonking 600-bin wine list knocks most of the competition out of the park.