Lobos Meat & Tapas

Restaurants South Bank
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Lobos Meat & Tapas
Venue says Sink your teeth into a carnivorous menu of meat and tapas beneath the railway arches leading into Borough Market.

A moodily lit Spanish restaurant in Borough Market.

Borough Market is hardly lacking in decent places to eat, but it’s also never been too rock ’n’ roll in the way that Soho or parts of east London are. The new Spanish restaurant Lobos – a moodily lit lair with a banging soundtrack – gives it some edge.

The dining room creates a sense of anticipation: Steppenwolf’s ‘Born to Be Wild’ blares from the speakers, and there’s a ground-floor bar serving sherry, cava, cocktails and wines from the decent all-Spanish list. Upstairs the main dining area is a narrow, dimly lit tunnel with intimate cubbies for couples, bare filament bulbs sticking out of the walls, and trains rumbling overhead. It seems fitting for a restaurant whose name translates as ‘wolves’.

The menu makes much of how the chefs use their instinct and acute senses to create dishes. Sadly, the plates we tried didn’t dazzle. A mini-tortilla, snug in its cast-iron frying pan, was far too dry. Migas – a simple Spanish recipe for leftover bread, served with morsels of bacon or chorizo and a fried egg – arrived slightly congealed and chewy rather than crisp. Presa ibérica – a shoulder cut of the Spanish pig that’s taking London by storm – was served sliced and disconcertingly rare, and bore none of the scars or flavour of the grill. We wished we’d plumped for the rib-eye steak with pan-fried foie gras, or perhaps the leg of Castilian milk-fed lamb, because fellow diners seemed perfectly content.

‘The wolf will always be evil if we only listen to Little Red Riding Hood’ reads a slogan at the entrance. This is a Spanish way of saying there are two sides to every story. Maybe that’s true at Lobos – go try it, and make up your own mind.

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Lobos Meat & Tapas says
Tucked inconspicuously beneath the railway arches of an alley leading to the Borough Market is LOBOS Meat and Tapas. The wolfpack does what they do best here: excellent tapas, succulent meat, warm service and a good dose of rock ‘n’ roll.

The cavernous interior is a meld of corrugated steel and reclaimed wood with a bar on the ground level and an open-plan kitchen on the first level. The intimate dining booths are fitted with leather chesterfield backrests. With Edison pendant lights bathing an orange hue throughout the restaurant and a gentle rattle and clinking of the trains above, LOBOS retains much of the grit of the old Borough Market.

Staying true to the local market’s blood, LOBOS’ British meat comes from the famed supplier Ginger Pig, while its Iberico is flown from Sierra de Montánchez, Spain: no expense is spared in food quality.

As the name LOBOS (which means wolves) would suggest, meat dominates the Spanish menu here and the Iberico Pork Selection here is every carnivore’s wildest dream: beautifully marbled secreto, fork tender presa and a perfectly cooked pork fillet accompanied by Catalan-style trinxat and homemade crisps.
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By: Nicola Arencibia

Posted:

Venue name: Lobos Meat & Tapas
Contact:
Address: 14 Borough High St
London
SE1 9QG
Opening hours: Daily noon-3.30pm, 5.30-11pm
Transport: Tube: London Bridge
Price: Meal for two with drinks and service: around £60.
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Average User Rating

3.5 / 5

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LiveReviews|2
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Tastemaker

Great place for tapas and drinks near London Bridge station. It's a small space, but designed well and with good music, lighting and service, so feels cosy rather than crowded. The best dishes we tried were seasonal mushrooms with a fried egg, a zesty fresh salad with pistachios and very good grilled pork (although the mojo crisps with it were inedible - they tasted like they'd been cooked in really old oil, hence 1 star taking off). Would happily go to Lobos again.

Tastemaker

Crazily busy tapas restaurant in Borough Market, very nice setting but also incredibly cramped. The staff were very nice and we met a fellow diner who had been there every fortnight for a few months because she loves the dulce de leche cheesecake so much!

The tapas we chose were the Iberico Pork Selection, Ribeye and Foiegras and the Green Salad. The pork selection contained 3 different cuts of pork, all of which were cooked beautifully. They were served with a small side of grated potato covered in paprika, which I wasn’t particularly keen on and don’t think the dish needed it.

The ribeye was slightly overdone and tough but the foiegras was cooked well and delicious even on its own.

The salad (and I know it’s just a salad!) was really good as far as salads go! Could’ve done with more asparagus though.

And given the testimonial for the cheesecake, we decided to try it and can see how one could become addicted!

Overall, a nice dining experience but I don’t think I would go again, certainly not as often as the other lady!