Paradise Garage

Restaurants, Contemporary European Bethnal Green
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • 5 out of 5 stars
(12user reviews)
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 (© Jonathan Thompson)
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 (Jonathan Thompson)
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Jonathan Thompson
Paradise Garage, Paradise 254, Bethnal Green, London, UK. 22nd July 2015. Whole Rabbit Picnic , prapared by chef Robin Gill
 (© Jonathan Thompson)
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© Jonathan Thompson

Restaurants under the arches in Bethnal Green from the people behind The Manor in Clapham.

How often do you remember the texture of a dish? If you’ve eaten at Paradise Garage you just might. Underneath the railway arches, down Paradise Row - home to some of the best bars and restaurants in the area - the chefs have an intuitive grasp of what makes dishes that delight the tongue.

Take a lamb’s heart. It’s an undervalued ingredient, the meat considered too tough, too full-flavoured by some; but when it’s cooked rare and cut into slivers, the firm bite of the meat makes you notice the purity of iron-rich flavour. To match such an uncompromising cut you need bold flavours. The sharp aniseed of fennel is accentuated by fermentation (think fennel kimchi). Pair this with the meat and you get a double-whammy of unusual textures and sour tastes: one of this year’s must-try small plates.

Paradise Garage also fools around with seafood. Shellfish are deep-fried so they puff up like pork scratchings and end up decorating a plate of squid-ink emulsion with dabs of contrasting white salt cod brandade; the crunch and squidge of the dish gives childish pleasures. For the Chinese, such ‘mouthfeel’ is as important as presentation, aromas or flavours; yet it’s still rare to see European chefs giving much thought to it. It’s easy to make a mess of daring experimentation, but Paradise Garage has form. It’s the latest offshoot of The Manor in Clapham, recently declared the best new restaurant of the year by Time Out. Prior to that, The Dairy – head chef Robin Gill’s first branch, also in Clapham – made people notice Gill’s creative talents. Opening branch number three in Bethnal Green has required an expansion of staff, and so Gill has wisely hired Simon Woodrow, previously at Arbutus, who is clearly firing on all burners. Gill and Woodrow’s menu combines unusual meats (such as White Park beef, from an ancient, long-horned breed) with ingredients such as pied bleu wild mushrooms pictured above.

This smart, avant-garde cooking is served up in a casual, café-like setting of mismatched plates and corrugated-iron-arched ceiling. The former garage workshop has had its sunny forecourt – once used as an MOT parking lot – turned into an outdoor dining space.  

We wished the wine list came close to matching that of nearby Mission. We also wished we could have dined outside, to escape the free-jazz soundtrack (playing far too loudly) and admire the impressive street murals. But for some, it’s paradise found.

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Paradise Garage says
Paradise Garage is the third restaurant from chef Robin Gill – and his first in east London, focusing on seasonal British ingredients.

Early-evening diners (between 6pm and 6.30pm) can enjoy a two-course menu, plus a glass of wine for £20, or three courses and a glass of wine for £25.
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By: Guy Dimond

Posted:

Venue name: Paradise Garage
Contact:
Address: Arch 254
Paradise Row
London
E2 9LE
Opening hours: Tue-Fri 6-10pm; Sat noon-3pm & 6-10pm; Sun brunch 10.30am-noon, Sun lunch noon-3pm
Transport: Bethnal Green
Price: Meal for two with wine and service: around £110.
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Average User Rating

4.7 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:8
  • 4 star:4
  • 3 star:0
  • 2 star:0
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|12
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VanessaK
tastemaker

Lovely place, with great food and prosecco. I loved the under arched wine, they had a lot of gluten free options, even bread, and the staff was very friendly. Really nothing to complain about.

Sarah V
Tastemaker

Tucked away on Paradise Row, just off Bethnal Green Road, this restaurant serves Modern British cooking at its best. A lot of dishes are heavily vegetable based which makes them not only a lot more interesting but also easier digestible. We had starters, mains and desserts and still didn't feel overly full. From the flavour combinations to the portion sizes, this restaurant seems to have everything perfectly under control.

Chewy M

Outstanding food and service in this comfortable former railway arch. Best quality in the are by a long way!

Daniel L
Tastemaker

This is a hidden Gem in the now famous Paradise Row. And I think this is the crown jewel in the entire row of F&B outlets. I love the setting of the place and the ambience. Tables are well spaced and the drinks list is great. Staff are extremely friendly and helpful and are genuinely passionate about their food and about allowing you to have a good time. But the star of the place has to be the amazing food. I don't think I have tasted a better dish this year than the venison tartare. It is truly mind-blowing. The other dishes are also just as good and I struggle to think of one bad thing I had on the menu. This is so well priced as well and I am sure this is just calling out to be a Michelin-star. I think of this as the next Clove Club, and considering how Clove Club has done recently, I think that is high praise for the place.

Matt Chorlton
tastemaker

The mid-high end restaurant scene in London is currently obsessed with tasting menus, and rightfully so. When done well, this 'no/minimal choice' approach gives the diner an appreciation of exactly what the restaurant stands for by showcasing the talents of all members of the kitchen. Furthermore, when well-priced they often represent ridiculously good value (at the 'treat dinner' end of the spectrum!)


In my humble opinion, Paradise Garage offers the best example of this, in the most pleasant of environments for only £45. The staff are attentive without being pushy and the culinary craft on show is unreal. I've been back a number of times over the past few months and have always been blown away - especially by the desserts (Kira Ghidoni is an absolute genius - her Yoghurt sorbet is the most refreshing thing you'll ever eat). 


When you add in the fact that they run some of the best standalone events in London (#beastieboysandgirls and #bloodsugar) - Paradise is the definition of a must-visit.

Bonnie W
Tastemaker

When we came here for dinner, we were expecting to just order maybe two dishes off of the menu but were told that they were small plates and three or four each were recommended. They also offered a tasting menu which ended up seeming like the better option because you could try about seven plates for a similar price. I'm vegetarian and it was a pleasant surprise that they also offered a vegetarian tasting menu on request.


The service was attentive and they seemed to take great care in providing fresh and locally sourced ingredients. There were a number of items on the menu that I hadn't heard of before but the server explained each course to us. I wasn't overly full after the tasting menu, but didn't leave hungry either. The cocktails were also really well done and moderately priced. 


Paradise Garage in located under one of the railway arches near Bethnal Green tube and it's surprising how light and spacious they are able to make the restaurant feel. Overall, the bill came to more than we would normally pay for dinner but it was a nice treat.

Patrick L

We went for the taster menu with the wine pairing. Pricey, but oh so good! Immaculate service too. Both from our waitress and our sommelier. I really recommend for a fine dinning experience in East London. Perhaps not quite up with The Typing Room, but close.

Lucy Loo
Tastemaker

A definite treat. Modern British cooking at its best. I predict we’ll be hearing more and more about this restaurant!


We went for the eight course tasting menu at £45 a head. Every mouthful was fresh, delicious and surprising. My favourite course was the mackerel tartare with kohlrabi, apple and grilled lemon. Yes… it was even better than it sounds.

bext45
Tastemaker

Beautifully presented, fresh, interesting and inventive food all served on a delightful variety of plates. The juxtaposition of food next to the train line and graffiti artists which surround the restaurant is great – completely opposed. The service was impeccable with each dish presented and introduced; particularly important when you order so many small dishes. By no means a cheap night out but one to remember and meditate on for some time to come.

Giuls

Amazing food and lovely and professional staff. I had dinner at the bar, right in front of the head chef. Really cool experience!

Special Offers

Dinner: 2 courses including a glass of wine £20

From a set menu, 3 courses £25. Please note that tables are allocated for 1.5 hours.

Offer valid until May 10 2017