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Patara might be new on the scene in Hampstead but, having opened its first London branch nearly 26 years ago, this longstanding Thai chain has had plenty of time to hone its craft – and it shows. The warm, inviting restaurant has low-lighting and simple decor, while the staff are friendly and attentive.
They’ve got the classics covered – chicken and prawn satay, prawn tom yum soup and pad thai – but there are some more contemporary dishes too, including duck confit in a ginger-tamarind sauce and lilac dumplings with caramelised chicken.
You can’t go to a Thai restaurant and not sample the curry, though. The lamb shank massaman was rich and fragrant, and the meat fell off the bone. A more subtle black cod was perfectly cooked and infused with zingy citrus and ginger. The portions were generous without being overwhelming – you won’t go hungry here (just as long as you bring your credit card).
In the days of cat cafés and crowdfunded restaurants, a chain can seem a bit, well, boring. But with high-quality ingredients, bold flavours and a 19-strong cocktail list, Patara is anything but dull. After all, if it’s managed to survive London’s restaurant scene unscathed for more than two decades, it must be doing something right.