Tandis

Peer through the window of this smart neighbourhood restaurant, and it’s unlikely you’d guess its Persian menu. Contemporary and European in style – and with a long bar at its centre – Tandis can feel pretty soulless on a quiet evening. Still, its upmarket wine bar aesthetic belies some genuinely authentic dishes. Tah dig (essentially crispy rice) covered in ghorm-e sabzi won’t be to everyone’s taste (many find the rice tooth-breaking hard), but it’s nice to see a dish normally reserved for home cooking on a restaurant menu. Stews too are made with care: Iran’s endlessly popular pomegranate-based fesenjan was wonderfully rich, and a bademjan was thick with aubergine and lamb. The chicken kebab made with a ‘special house saffron marinade’, however, was overwhelmingly pungent. A little of the expensive spice goes a long way, and we suspect Tandis is being a touch too generous with its saffron stash. It’s a shame the restaurant isn’t quite as bounteous with its service, which felt stilted and unsmiling on our visit, and entirely lacking in enthusiasm. The slickly turned out staff may suit the decor, but they clash with the hearty nature of Iranian cuisine and the country’s relaxed approach to dining.