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Please note, Temple and Sons has closed. Time Out Food editors, August 2018.
It was a bold move for Jason Atherton to plant his latest eatery right next door to his Michelin-starred City Social. But there’s no sibling rivalry here. Temple and Sons eludes its big bro’s suave demeanour and sky-high views for something a bit more down to earth (literally).
The relaxed philosophy extends to the retro decor and a menu chock-full of the sort of old-school English comfort food you devoured as a kid. Think hearty sausage rolls. Or chips drenched in vinegar. But it’s all done in such a clever way that it’s practically fine dining, albeit without the breathtaking bill. Still, that didn’t stop me putting my decorum to one side, and polishing off a hearty bowl of prawn cocktail that was clearly meant for sharing. I couldn’t help myself. That tart combo of dill, capers, sun-dried tomatoes and fat prawns was incredible. And if no one had been looking, I would’ve licked the gravy off an extra-tasty plate of sausage and mash with HP gravy.
The sweet-toothed will be charmed by a selection of desserts so exciting-sounding it was difficult to whittle down. After weighing up the trifle with gingerbread, poached rhubarb and ginger, and the frozen yoghurt topped with ‘PBJ’ (peanuts, morello cherry jam and roasted brioche crumb yoghurt), I settled on the latter – not that it was much of a compromise. Save for a few floundering waiters at the start of dinner, everything about Temple and Sons was the business – and a lovely trip down memory lane. Get in while it’s hot.