The rising star versus the ageing legend has been a dramatic staple for years, and Hayden Panettiere (‘Heroes’) and Connie Britton (‘Friday Night Lights’) thoroughly enjoy their first hour of spitting poison at each other in this new US series. And, as with ‘All About Eve’ and its ilk, you’ll find your sympathies shifting throughout.
C&W icon Rayna James (Britton) is dismayed when her record company, concerned at her ailing profile, push her into touring with ambitious diva Juliette Barnes (Panettiere). As is customary, the pair’s lives mirror each other: Rayna’s problems with her overbearing father are reflected by Juliette’s issues with her junkie mum, and there’s also a dash of local politics through Rayna’s useless husband, who is considering a run for the mayoralty.
Just like the finest country songs, ‘Nashville’ transcends its apparent limitations thanks to enthusiastic delivery and good old-fashioned story-telling (the latter courtesy of ‘Thelma and Louise’ scribe Callie Khouri). Rather unexpectedly, an early contender for best new American import of 2013.
‘Korexican’ sounds like a kitchen-worktop material, or a sicko’s name for a drug used in treating eating disorders. In fact it means Korean + Mexican, and some people – at least 20, I’m sure – think it’s going to be a big food trend. Bó Drake, in theory an example of the trend, prefers to call itself an ‘East Asian barbecue restaurant’ – much more accurate. It could also be called an American/Asian fusion restaurant, having elements in common with David Chang’s Momofuku group in New York and the Kogi ‘taco trucks’ (Mexican tacos, but with Korean-style meats) set up in Los Angeles by Seoul-born Roy Choi. While the Mexican connection is indisputable, the dominant palate at this no-reservations restaurant is Korean. And the flavours are splashed on with vigour. To eat here is to surf on wave after wave of umami flavours. Three meat dishes were sensationally good: long-smoked brisket served in a bao (soft bun) with tangy relishes; smoked pork ribs in a finger-licking pear sauce; chargrilled rib-eye (served rare as requested) with miso butter. Kimchi quesadillas were a surprisingly subtle starter, mild cheese in a crisp tortilla sauced with poblano cream. Pan-fried cauliflower came with a smoky mushroom purée. Salty, crunchy sweet potato fries (served with kimchee mayonnaise) were irresistible. The waves of flavour are incessant, but incessant in the most pleasurable way possible. There’s a big communal table at the front and smaller tables, dimly lit, at the back. The decor i
Venue says: “Our lamb cutlets are a new addition to the menu - one of life's gastronomic pleasures.”