The outtakes and rare footage that tend to form the backbone of such profiles include a fine duet with Paul McCartney in full ‘Oh, Darling!’ mode and some enjoyable confrontational concert film, while Costello himself is in garrulous, self-mocking form. Elvis fans will be well pleased – and may even want to hold off until tomorrow, when an extended version featuring more of the man’s live performances, recording minutiae, family background and later years will air on BBC4 at 11.45pm.
Lobos Meat & Tapas London Bridge
Borough Market is hardly lacking in decent places to eat, but it’s also never been too rock ’n’ roll in the way that Soho or parts of east London are. The new Spanish restaurant Lobos – a moodily lit lair with a banging soundtrack – gives it some edge. The dining room creates a sense of anticipation: Steppenwolf’s ‘Born to Be Wild’ blares from the speakers, and there’s a ground-floor bar serving sherry, cava, cocktails and wines from the decent all-Spanish list. Upstairs the main dining area is a narrow, dimly lit tunnel with intimate cubbies for couples, bare filament bulbs sticking out of the walls, and trains rumbling overhead. It seems fitting for a restaurant whose name translates as ‘wolves’. The menu makes much of how the chefs use their instinct and acute senses to create dishes. Sadly, the plates we tried didn’t dazzle. A mini-tortilla, snug in its cast-iron frying pan, was far too dry. Migas – a simple Spanish recipe for leftover bread, served with morsels of bacon or chorizo and a fried egg – arrived slightly congealed and chewy rather than crisp. Presa ibérica – a shoulder cut of the Spanish pig that’s taking London by storm – was served sliced and disconcertingly rare, and bore none of the scars or flavour of the grill. We wished we’d plumped for the rib-eye steak with pan-fried foie gras, or perhaps the leg of Castilian milk-fed lamb, because fellow diners seemed perfectly content. ‘The wolf will always be evil if we only listen to Little Red Riding Hood’ rea
Venue says: “Sink your teeth into a carnivorous menu of meat and tapas beneath the railway arches leading into Borough Market.”