Black Hogg is one of those chef-driven restaurants with intentions to serve a short but inspired menu. And after recently securing a permit to serve craft beer and wine, this year-old, Silver Lake eatery has re-opened to a dinner-only, neighborhood crowd.
The cramped shoebox space is dressed entirely in head-to-toe blonde wood—a space that some might describe as “hip”—which explains why it’s so hard to hear. Add a notch-too-loud indie tunes and you might leave some with a headache. But that’s not stopping Eastsiders from dropping by for chef Eric Park’s globally influenced, stick-to-your-ribs small plates.
Expect bold, in-your-face flavors in dishes such as diced, grilled octopus ($21) plated with a plump and perfectly cooked Maine scallop and chana masala, Indian chickpea stew that’s heavy on the spice. Lechon asado fries ($13), a Mexican take on poutine, combines thick-cut frites with juicy pulled pork, crispy pork ears and a flurry of slivered onion and cilantro leaves—a hearty and flavorful dish geared to those not watching their waist.
However, dishes just miss the mark: Kale Caesar salad ($10) is overdressed in anchovy, while Brussels sprouts and baby potatoes ($9) are overly glazed and tossed with a bacon vinaigrette that lack acid. But the Five Milks Bread Pudding ($8) make it all worthwhile. Hands down the best dessert we’ve had this year: A brioche dough lies on a bed of salty caramel sauce for the ultimate cinnamon bun—a real knockout.
Vitals
Where to sit: Those who come after 8pm will likely have to wait for a table, but there’s also room to dine at the bar.
What to eat: Duo toasts topped with cool and briny sea urchin ($13) are a great start to the meal. Popcorn bacon or deep-fried bacon cubes with maple cream are quite popular, as is the restaurant’s take on poutine topped with pulled pork, queso fresco, crunchy deep-fried pigs ears, red onion slivers and cilantro. And the Five Milks Bread Pudding ($8) is an absolute must. The salty-sweet masterpiece and the best dessert we’ve found this year.
What to drink: Black Hogg shuttered for a period of time when chef Eric Park worked to secure a beer and wine license. He now serves a dozen or so boutique wines plus a short list of esoteric brews like The Bruery’s Sour in the Rye.