Gesso (CLOSED)

Serving modern, California-tinged Italian fare from 8am until the early hours of the morning, Gesso is the kind of place where you can expect a blistered-crust pizza and wood-roasted radishes well into the night, every night. The cuisine is what chef Doug Miriello—formerly of the Gjelina Group—refers to as elevated, approachable and comfortable, and just as inspired by his Italian-Jewish roots as L.A.'s farmers' markets and seasonality. Find breakfast, an all-day menu and dinner service on weekdays, with brunch and dinner on weekends. Don't skip the adorable walk-up coffee shop and baked-goods corner, nor the full bar in the main dining room.