When Abla Amad, the grande dame of Lebanese home cooking, opened Abla’s in 1979, she had a stall at the Lygon Street Festa that sold only falafel and kofte. Her falafel are so tasty, they’re still coveted at the restaurant, 40 years on. Hot balls of chickpea and broad bean enlivened with fresh coriander, mouth-numbing allspice and woody cumin come drizzled with parsley-speckled tahini that soaks into the fluffy interior upon first bite. With four in a serve, they make for a filling, protein-rich snack or an entrée to share.