Best ooooh Canada: Mile End

Canada, the butt of many jokes, is also home to one of the world's most delicious and enduring deli traditions. New Yorkers have pastrami, Montrealers have smoked meat—luscious brisket that's been dry-rubbed, cured, smoked, steamed and hand cut, resulting in flavorful, delicious slices bound for mustard-slathered rye. This Montreal-style deli from Quebecer Noah Bernamoff and his wife, Rae Cohen, serves the sandwiches in old-school fashion, along with other regional specialties—like the excellent poutine (including a smoked-meat riff), and a killer hash—that make us reconsider the staid reputation of our northern neighbor. Mile End 97A Hoyt St between Atlantic Ave and Pacific St, Boerum Hill, Brooklyn (718-852-7510)