Critics' pick

Seeing delight

Photo: Talia Simhi

You may have read about Turkish delight, the chewy, rose-scented treat in C.S. Lewis’s The Chronicles of Narnia (one of the heroes, Edmund, was obsessed with it). But chances are you’ve never tried a piece that merited addiction. The Syrian confectioners at Oriental Pastry & Grocery make a truly delightful version at their Brooklyn Heights shop. In a 100-year-old copper candy kettle, they cook sugar, cornstarch, rose oil and mastic gum—a tree resin that gives the candy its elasticity and enhances the rose scent—along with 50 pounds of fresh Turkish pistachios. Then they fashion the mass into a three-foot-long, nutty, powdered-sugar--dusted coil. The density of the pistachios becomes apparent when the shopkeeper carves a slice: His forearm shakes as he attempts to cut through—a sure sign that they aren’t skimping on the nuts. 170 Atlantic Ave between Clinton and Court Sts, Brooklyn Heights (718-875-7687).—Gabriella Gershenson