License to chill
In a time of seasonal confusion, these frozen treats offer cold and warmth all at once.
Thu Mar 15 2007
Hurapan Kitchen (29 Seventh Ave South between Bedford and Morton Sts, 212-727-2678) has crafted a crunchy-on-the-outside, icy-on-the-inside Thai fried ice cream ($7): A scoop of coconut ice cream is encased in white bread, rolled in shredded coconut, dunked in the deep fryer and plated with diced mango and raspberry sauce.
As we were informed by our waiter at Soho’s Bar Martignetti (406 Broome St at Centre St, 212-680-5600), affogato ($8) is Italian for “drowned.” For our dessert, that meant one scoop each of Il Laboratorio’s vanilla and hazelnut gelati, doused tableside in steaming Julius Meinl espresso. Dip a spoon in to catch the delicious contrast of hot and cold.
The big-enough-to-share baked Alaska ($14) at Sam DeMarco’s Fireside (19 E 52nd St between Fifth and Madison Aves, 212-754-5011) features peaked Italian meringue torched to a caramelized gold—which cloaks a still-frozen vanilla-and-coffee--flavored ice-cream center—all under a cage of spun sugar.
Park Slope’s The Chocolate Room (86 Fifth Ave between St. Marks Pl and Warren St, 718-783-2900) transforms its 61 percent bittersweet Belgian hot chocolate into a hot-chocolate float ($5.50) by adding a scoop of house-made ice cream (try the mint). The result suggests the unlikely offspring of a root beer float and a hot-fudge sundae.