Smooth operator

Duane Park

Photograph: Roxana Marroquin

My first thought when Marisa Ferrarin, a partner at Duane Park (157 Duane St between West Broadway and Hudson St, 212-732-5555), set a Berry Bauchant ($12) cocktail before me was of burgundy charmeuse, a lustrous fabric that might have inspired poet Robert Herrick’s rhapsody upon “that liquefaction” of his lover Julia’s clothes. Ferrarin serves cocktails in an ever-changing selection of vintage etched-glass stemware, and to sit at the Duane Park bar, gazing into the jewel box of a dining room, is to be transported to an era when women wore fur stoles over strapless gowns. The Berry Bauchant gets its deep color and spicy fruit flavor (and boatload of vitamin C) from black-currant juice. The warming kick comes from a balanced combination of Sauza Hornitos Tequila, with its undercurrent of wood and smoke, and Bauchant cognac-based orange liqueur. Ferrarin cuts the liqueur’s sweetness with a squeeze of lemon and presents the finished cocktail over ice with a twist. When you hold the glass to the light, it’s nearly opaque. But on the way down, the drink is smooth as, well, silk.

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