You need to know about: Lonestar Empire Smoked Angus Brisket Sandwiches

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Photograph: Jolie Ruben

Lonestar Empire Smoked Angus Brisket Sandwiches

Three years after the Brooklyn Flea's founding, we continue to scribble about the OG hipster market. Among our favorite newcomers is brisket-sandwich peddler Lonestar Empire, from Houston transplants Dennis Ngo and LinYee Yuan—he's the head chef at An Choi, she's a design-magazine editor. Their meat, which debuted under the HNH BBQ moniker two summers ago, is a delicious testament to simple food done right. Ngo rubs down Angus beef with salt and pepper, and smokes it low and slow for up to 16 hours over mesquite wood shipped from Texas. It's cooked until the fat renders and moistens the meat, the exterior caramelizes to a crisp black, and the whole cut is tender but still firm. At the market stall, they tuck soft slices ringed with smoke lines into a sweet Martin's potato roll and serve the sandwiches with a tomato-vinegar 'cue sauce made with smoker drippings for an extra dose of meaty flavor. The addition of crisp, homemade dill pickles is free, and a scoop of the addictive mustard-spiked potato salad is just an extra buck. Available at the Brooklyn Flea. Saturday: 176 Lafayette Ave between Clermont and Vanderbilt Aves, Fort Greene, Brooklyn. Sunday: East River Waterfront between North 6th and 7th Sts, Williamsburg, Brooklyn. $8.

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