I want to hold your sand...wich

Last night I had the pleasure of attending a press dinner at the recently opened Kampuchea Noodle Bar, located at the corner of Rivington and Allen on the Lower East Side. I tried a few items from the menu; they were serving only sodas and fruit drinks because they are still waiting for their liquor license. "We have it," said a woman working behind the counter of the open kitchen, "but we don't have a hard copy yet. It's in the mail."

I'm not going to critique the food here, since it was a comped press dinner and because the place has only been open for about a week. But there was one dish that I can't help but comment on.

I loved the skirt steak Num Pang. It's like a Cambodian version of banh mi—a baguette stuffed with meat, pickled carrot and sprigs of fresh cilantro—but the bread was more chewy than crusty, and instead of pork (which is available in a few other sandwiches), slices of tender and juicy grilled skirt steak were smooshed between bread smeared with chili mayonnaise. It was truly transcendent. At $8, it's about twice as much as a banh mi from Nicky's. But it's worth the splurge.