Michael White's pasta primer
Three noodles to know before you go to Osteria Morini.
Mon Nov 29 2010
Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson
These curly, tubular noodles—whose name translates to "weed"—were one of the first pastas White encountered on his inaugural trip to Italy. He serves them here as Bolognese mothers do: con salsiccia—in a meaty sausage rag.
These hand-cut pasta "rags" bear a resemblance to lasagna, hence their other moniker: lasaganette. White invokes the stacked noodle dish by layering the squat rectangles free-form, with wild-mushroom sauce and Parmesan.
Ruffled edges that evoke a rooster's cockscomb—or crest—give these macaroni their name. The wavy texture helps the pasta absorb and capture sauce, like the one made with mussels, shrimp and scallops at Morini.