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ALL'ONDA bucatini
Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz 100 best dishes in New York: Sea urchin bucatini at All'onda

The 100 best dishes in New York City 2014: Best pasta

This is not your nonna’s pasta—the best pasta dishes of 2014 come topped with sea urchin, studded with rabbit and formed by hand

By Time Out contributors, edited by Christina Izzo
Want to nestle up to a warm bowl of pasta? Get in line. This year’s best pastas includes a bucatini from All’onda that nearly caused food-world riots and linguine from Bar Primi, whose garlic punch could cure a cold upon first bite. Tangle up this year’s top-rated noodles at some of the best Italian restaurants in the city.
Cuscino at Meadowsweet
Photograph: Evan Sung

Ricotta cuscino at Meadowsweet

Restaurants Mediterranean Williamsburg

In the old Dressler space, Michelin-starred Polo Dobkin’s hand-rolled egg noodle is the elegant cross between a ravioli and a crepe. Dobkin fills the pillowy pasta bundle with sweet, herb-laced ricotta and sets in a delicate, silky pool of parmesan brodo bobbing with plump English peas. A finishing thicket of fresh pea shoots brightens the salty broth and will have you growing wistful for mild spring nights. (The fall rendition features roasted butternust squash, sage and brown butter.) $15.

Rabbit Cavitelli at Tessa
Photograph: Courtesy Tessa

Rabbit cavatelli at Tessa

Restaurants Mediterranean Upper West Side

If there’s anyone we’d want to follow down the rabbit hole, it’s Cedric Tovar. At his rustic Mediterranean spot, the Alsatian chef roasts the game with smoked cipollini onion until it’s sweet and suculent, nestling the meat in a bed of hand-rolled, priest-ear pasta—their ridged edges well-utilized for catching every drop of the brawny pancetta ragu—before giving the plate a drizzle of pureed, celerylike lovage. $26.

ALL'ONDA bucatini
Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Sea urchin bucatini at All'onda

Restaurants Italian Greenwich Village

When chef Chris Jaeckle pulled this stunner off the menu (he couldn’t source enough high-quality sea urchin to satisfy demand), devotees nearly rioted. Bouncy strands of bucatini are coated in an umami-laden sauce made with dashi parmesan stock, Maine uni, garlic, and brightened with lemon and white wine. More layers of the sea are found in the whisper of rich cream, that together with egg yolks and, you guessed it, more uni, make up Jaeckle’s uni base. Garnished with smoked pancetta and kicky panko breadcrumbs sautéed in Calabrian chili oil, this is a pasta worth taking to the streets for. $32


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