What Happens When (CLOSED)

At his long-term pop-up, Dovetail chef John Fraser gives the New York food scene a theatricality we’ve been missing. At the start of each month, a revolving collective of musicians, designers and artists swaps out the decor, lighting and soundtrack—all pegged to the same seasonal theme as the food and drinks. After a Nordic-inflected opening movement, the most recent incarnation turned its attention to the forest, with dishes loosely inspired by Where the Wild Things Are: tiny tempura-fried frog legs falling off the bone, jerk-rubbed venison tartare, and a porcine trio of grilled belly, rolled loin and succulent head meat in a crispy croquette. With these surprising and fun shifts already realized, we’re eager to see what happens next at What Happens When.