La Ferme Saint Simon restaurant in Paris just off Boulevard Saint Germain near the Quai d’Orsay is a slice of real France, that is, rural France, in one of the most high-powered quarters of the capital. The faux rough-hewn beams, striped wallpaper, figured carpet, and fine table linens recreate a cosseted, welcoming country bistro of Normandy. Well-screened tables makes this a favourite of politicians as well as discretion-seeking stars. Chef Xavier Caussade, formerly of Copenhagen restaurant, creates cuisine in the fine French seasonal tradition, dishes like sautéed Dublin Bay prawns with side dish of crab, pan-fried rib of milk-fed calf with potato cake, pear poached in syrup then coated with chocolate. Lavish wine list and attentive service.