A stone’s throw from the Champs Elysées but a world away from the crowds, La Table du Lancaster is hidden away in the luxurious Hôtel Lancaster, as discreet as it is enchanting.
This one Michelin-starred venture was run for many years by Michel Troisgrois (who has three stars at the Maison Troisgros in Roanne), but since November 2012 has passed to the executive chef, Julien Rocheteau. The décor is timeless, immune to the capital’s trends, and it’s always a pleasure to come back here. The elegant sobriety of the room, from the comfortable armchairs to the refined flower arrangements, encourages you to relax and concentrate on the beautifully arranged and perfectly executed food.
We came at lunch to take advantage of the ‘Bon Plan de la Table’ set menu (€56 for amuse bouche, starter, main course, pudding, coffee and sweets, with a glass of wine or a half litre of water), expecting to pass a few hours in luxury. Beneath the benevolent gaze of the geishas painted on the walls and the attentive waiters, the dishes arrived with no false notes, nor a great deal of inspiration. The clearly described dishes (fried egg and creamed cauliflower, lamb’s shoulder confit cannelloni and chickpeas) turned up beautifully cooked and full of clear flavours, but lacked pizzazz. To experience the full talent of the chef, you need to go à la carte, and be prepared to spend the money (especially if you want to hit the wine list). The dishes are arranged into categories like ‘piquant’, ‘vivacious’, ‘sparkling’, mixing exotic flavours (jellied eels and ogonori salad, crayfish with plums and cumin) and extreme classicism (sole with chives, hare à la royale).
Popular with businessmen thanks to the quality of the food and the peaceful atmosphere, it’s couples who really benefit from La Table du Lancaster. In the cosy little salon at the back during winter, or on the quiet sunny patio in summer, everything here suggests intimacy and privilege.
|Venue name:||La Table du Lancaster||Contact:|
7 rue de Berri
|Opening hours:||Daily 12.30pm-2pm (except Sat), 7.30pm-10pm|
|Transport:||Métro : George V, Saint-Philippe-du-Roule ou Franklin D. Roosevelt|
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