La Truffe Noire

La Truffe Noire in Paris' chic Neuilly is a temple of gastronomy dedicated to the black gold that is the black truffle. In honour of this subtly-perfumed culinary jewel, the recently-renovated restaurant is a refined, elegant space with softly-coloured walls, electric blue and burnt orange upholstery, gilt-framed artworks, and a sophisticated, well-heeled clientele with stars and major politicians among its ranks. Chef Patrice Hardy -- formerly of superhot Korova -- has created a cuisine both traditional and innovative that bends to the seasons and the markets, not always involving truffles, though some show up in unusual places, like truffle ice cream. The wines and service are suberbly orchestrated.