Delightful, simple Italian cooking in a chic Montmartre establishment, far removed from the touristy Place du Tertre bustle.
Montmartre, and especially the area around the Place du Tertre, is full of tacky restaurants that happily rip off unsuspecting tourists. But step back a few streets, and you’ll come upon some utterly charming spots that do nothing of the sort. Mastino is one such place. Its menu is full of classic Italian dishes, but its décor is less traditional, all industrial chic with its jet-black walls and exposed lightbulbs. An open kitchen riffs on the historically communal nature of Italian cooking, as the friendly waiting staff smilingly glide between tables.
The food here is simple, but excellently done. Wines, meanwhile, are mostly Italian and span exquisite whites, reds and rosés, while classic cocktails like Spritz and negronis are also available. To start we opt for the house platter of antipasti (€16), piled with all kinds of treats like smoked hams, mozzarella, artichokes, olives and – far and away the standout – a moreish frittata slice. It’s a hugely generous helping, and more suitable to share between four, rather than the two people they suggest.
Next, we reluctantly skip the wide range of pastas on offer, as it’s the pizzas that Mastino really excel at, their consistent thin and crispy bases, topped with beautifully fresh ingredients, proving utterly brilliant. While there are some more out-there choices (how about a passata-less bianca with truffle, potato and rosemary, €16?), it’s classics like the Parma ham and scamorza cheese (€15) that really impress. The only downer on the evening is our pudding, a chocolate mousse, which feels far too heavy and not really what we’d think of as a mousse. But this said, everything else was sublime.
|Opening hours:||Tue-Thu 12noon-2.45pm, 7pm-10.30pm; Fri 12noon-2.45pm, 7pm-11pm; Sat 12noon-3pm, 7pm-11pm; Sun 12noon-3pm, 7pm-10.30pm|
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