Whatever the time of year, Koenji can comfortably bask in the knowledge that it's one of Tokyo's coolest neighbourhoods. For the uninitiated, there are few better times to visit than during this annual autumn festival, in which the area's streets are flooded with performers, while local shops lure visitors with 'stamp rallies' (notch up stamps on your card for a chance to take part in a raffle) and ¥100 mystery gifts, and gig venues throw free concerts. There'll also be markets selling second-hand books and kokeshi dolls, plus paid gigs, talk shows and dance performances at Za Koenji theatre, Missions, Show Boat and a few other places.
