The best places to visit in Cornwall, from coast to cove

Small, quiet and extraordinarily beautiful, the Isles of Scilly are a low-lying archipelago strung out across the Atlantic, some 28 miles off Land’s End – the last dots of land before North America. Basking in the warmth of the Gulf Stream in summer, the islands paint an exotic scene: softly curving, silver sand beaches are splashed by clear, shallow waters and a shock of weird and wonderful flowers and plants, many of which would struggle to survive in any other part of the country, run riot. Fiery red-hot pokers and purple-headed agapanthus, natives of Africa, make themselves at home, and the waxy ‘cactus roses’ of aeoniums, originally from the Canaries, crawl over garden walls.

South from Helston, the peninsula takes on an altogether more untamed character. The underlying serpentine rock, a greenish metamorphic stone, is covered by dour, dramatic sweeps of heathland (collectively named the Lizard National Nature Reserve), whose unusual geological make-up means it is home to some of Britain’s rarest plants. The swathes of pink-flowering Cornish heath (Erica vagans), at its prettiest in summer, are particularly glorious. On the coast, there are towering cliffs and rousing seas, preposterously pretty fishing villages and tempting sandy coves. Most visitors gravitate inexorably to Lizard Point to spend a few moments as the most southerly person in mainland Britain.

Cornwall’s ‘forgotten corner’ – as the Rame Peninsula is often dubbed – is also one of the county’s most beautiful areas. Bafflingly overlooked by tourists and travel guides, the southeastern tip of Cornwall, on the Devon border, is the stuff of daydreams: romantic creeks, historic country mansions and snug waterside villages that give way to wild, unspoilt cliffs. It is perhaps the out-of-the-way location and the proximity of Plymouth across the water that has saved this small peninsula from development – most people dart straight over the Tamar Bridge rather than detour into the meandering country lanes, which culminate in a breathtaking dead-end when they reach the sea.

Mevagissey is an ancient port and fishing village that dates back to the 14th century. In the 19th century, pilchards were the main catch here, and fish were salted and stored in cellars in the town and exported. The painted cob and slate houses cling to the hillside overlooking the two harbours, and the old fish cellars have been converted into tourist-oriented shops and eateries. These days, the fishermen supplement their income by taking visitors out on fishing trips; there is shark fishing for the adventurous and mackerel trips for families who want to catch their own supper.

On a sunny morning, before the summer crowds throng the harbour walls and car-owners make misguided attempts to navigate its minuscule streets, Mousehole (pronounced Mowzel) seems too perfect to be true. Its tiny harbour is fringed with soft, yellow sand, while the granite cottages huddling together behind are made all the more irresistible by carefully tended window boxes and the odd cat peeking out. But even if Mousehole has, by dint of its beauty, become a tourist magnet, with cramped fisherman’s cottages attracting mindboggling offers, the village has retained plenty of character and has a strong sense of community year-round.

Home of the frankly magical St Michael's Mount – a castle on an island that can only be reached on foot during low tide – Marazion makes for an excellent day trip. After spending a few hours getting lost on the ancietnt cobbled streets of the mount (construction began on the site in 1135), you can also walk the coastal path, sunbathe on Marazion Beach (weather permitting) or visit Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens. 

The approach to St Ives by train (a journey holidaymakers have been making since the line was built in the 1870s) is a veritable sight for sore eyes. The single-carriage train chugs along the curve of St Ives Bay, opening up glorious vistas of golden sands and treating you to a bird’s-eye view of the UK’s most perfect seaside town: a pretty old granite harbour scooped out of the bay, filled with water the colour of lime cordial, and a tangle of cottages and lanes nudging each other for space. Long a magnet for artists, on account of the extraordinary quality of light, St Ives still has a wonderfully exotic feel. The vivid colours rebel against the restrained English palette, and its island-like setting means there are soft, white-sand beaches and glimpses of the sea at every turn. A scattering of Cornish palms – not to mention the more recent arrival of frothy cappuccinos, fancy restaurants and fluffy white towels–combine to make it all feel considerably more French Riviera than Cornish Riviera. 

In contrast to upscale Fowey, with its multi-million-pound riverside properties and chichi interiors boutiques, a feel of pre-gentrification British seaside prevails at Looe, with buckets and spades, fudge and bags of chips unashamedly courting the summer trade. What it may lack in sophistication, however, it does make up for with a fantastic town beach and a memorable setting – not to mention the bonus of landing some of the freshest fish around, thanks to its day boats.

The seat of the county’s first and only university, hotly tipped as Cornwall’s boomtown and home to the new-this millennium National Maritime Museum, Falmouth has the feel of a town that’s on its way up. Where other Cornish seaside towns tend towards old-fashioned bucket-and-spade charm or cutesy chic (St Ives, Padstow, Fowey), Falmouth has a more youthful, cosmopolitan air, thanks largely to the creation of University College Falmouth, which specialises in arts, design and media. There is now a plethora of hip bars and cafés and a full calendar of festivals and events.

You can swiftly identify a newcomer to the south Cornish coast by his stated intention to visit ‘Fowee Hall’. It is pronounced ‘Foy’, and the place is as intriguing as its name. With its steep winding streets and busy little port, located at the mouth of the river of the same name, this natural harbour is always busy with visiting yachts and boats. Regatta week in Fowey, usually the third week of August, is considered one of the best local regattas in the country; the spectacular Red Arrows display over the harbour is a highlight. With its classy boutiques, galleries, delis and cafés, and smartly painted houses, Fowey makes a well-heeled base for trips upriver and out to the nearby beaches. Taking to the water is a must. It is thought that Kenneth Grahame drew inspiration for The Wind in the Willows from the creeks and quiet waters of the Fowey estuary, and most of Fowey would agree with Ratty’s sage advice to Mole: ‘There is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.’

The best way to arrive in Penzance is by train. Partly for the feeling of having escaped to the end of the line, but also because when the track emerges from the Cornish countryside onto the curve of Mount’s Bay, it reveals a perfect view of the town on the hill above. The commercial centre for the western district of Penwith, Penzance was once a fashionable seaside resort – the trappings of which can still be seen in the fading but elegant architecture along Cornwall’s only seaside promenade, notably the art deco Jubilee Pool.

An unparalleled destination for gastronomy, estuary views and coastal charm, Padstow is the epitome of fishing-village-turned-chic. A warren of cobbled streets leads to the hubbub of the harbour, an animated mix of crabbers, netters, working boats, yachts and pleasure cruisers, with slate-hung, red brick and grey stone cottages trimming the edges, accommodating pasty shops, boutiques, chippies, pubs and increasing numbers of classy restaurants. The Tourist Information Centre by the quay is a good starting point for exploration.

Ducking out of the bullying Atlantic gales, between Bude to the south and Hartland Point to the north, Morwenstow fits tidily into a small wooded combe close to the Devon border. The tiny hamlet is most famous for its connection to the eccentric, opium-smoking Victorian vicar Reverend Stephen Hawker, who served at the parish church and is credited with introducing the Harvest Festival in English churches. Hawker’s presence looms in the stepped mock-Tudor gables and Gothic windows of the Morwenstow Vicarage, where each chimneypot mimics the spire of a church. The Grade I-listed church itself, set against the ocean backdrop, is a memorable sight.

Almost joined to Penzance to the south, Newlyn nevertheless retains its own identity, with a history strongly linked to art and fishing. Despite the decline in the fishing industry, this is still the county’s biggest fishing port and the site of the Newlyn Fish Festival, held over the August bank holiday. In contrast to Mousehole, a few miles around the coast, Newlyn has the look and feel of a working port, and anyone interested in fishing should take a closer look at the harbour – or at the very least, invest in some gleaming fish or fresh Newlyn crab from W Stevenson and Sons on the main street.

The sober, no-frills town of Bodmin is the largest of the settlements around the moor. An important religious centre in the Dark Ages, thanks to the foundation of a priory at St Petroc in the sixth century, the town has an impressive 15th-century granite church dedicated to the saint. Bodmin was also once the county town of Cornwall before judicial and administrative powers moved to Truro, as evinced by some important-looking public buildings in the centre. Beyond the old-fashioned high street there is a handful of visitor attractions, including the foreboding Bodmin Jail on the outskirts and the quaint Bodmin & Wenford Railway.

While the discussion about its reputation as a magnet for boisterous young boozers rages on – the police calling for a clean-up, others enjoying the funfair – Newquay’s natural assets retain an indelible appeal. For an idea of the raw materials that first made Newquay a resort, make your way to the western side of the harbour; from here, you can take in the entire sweep of cliff-vaulted beaches across the bay.

The only town of any size on the Lizard Peninsula is the pretty country town of Helston, famous for its annual Flora Day celebrations held on 8 May (unless it falls on a Sunday or Monday). During this ancient festival, the town is decorated with bluebells and gorse, and schoolchildren dress in white and wear garlands in their hair. Festivities include the play-like ritual known as the Hal-an-Tow, in which St Michael slays the devil and St George slays the dragon, and culminate with the processional ‘Furry Dance’, in which townsfolk dress up in their finery and dance in and out of the houses. Amid the springtime revelry, much Cornish ale is imbibed.

Launceston (pronounced ‘Lanson’ locally), the ancient ‘capital’ of Cornwall, is a charming, richly historic market town. It acts as the traditional gateway between Dartmoor and Bodmin Moor and is one of the area’s most interesting inland towns for a wander. Although not much of the 12th-century town wall remains, evidence of Launceston’s medieval fortifications endures in the shape of Southgate Arch (originally one of three entries to the town) and the 11th-century castle, the seat of the first Earl of Cornwall. The 16th-century St Mary Magdalene Church, famous for its ornate carved exterior, is a striking sight.

Gently curving around the northeastern reaches of St Ives Bay are Hayle’s impressive (and much-touted) ‘three miles of golden sand’, reaching from the mouth of the Hayle estuary all the way around the bay to Godrevy Point, an epic spot guarded by the Godrevy Lighthouse (thought to have been the inspiration for Virginia Woolf’s novel To the Lighthouse). A world away from the cuteness and crowds of St Ives across the bay, the beaches of Gwithian and Godrevy, joined at low tide, are altogether more elemental scenes, pounded by some of Cornwall’s best surf and with big open skies and sunsets.

Located at the head of the Carrick Roads estuary, the capital of Cornwall has more than just a stunning Gothic Revival cathedral (which is almost certainly worth a visit). Head to Lemon Street Market to shop at independent boutiques or grab a coffee at the cute Fig Cafe. If you're a fan of digging around in second-hand shops, it's worth paying a visit to Enjoy Clothing, one of Truro's most beloved vintage stores. Or you can check out the Royal Cornwall Museum, showcasing Cornish arts and culture, or catch a show at the newly renovated theatre, the Hall For Cornwall.