栗林隆
画像提供:TRAPOL「大谷元気炉六号基」

This underground art installation near Tokyo is also a steam sauna

Step inside Japanese artist Takashi Kuribayashi’s ‘Genki-ro’ in Utsunomiya for a rejuvenating herbal steam spa

Written by
Darren Gore
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The boundary between nature and contemporary art becomes headily indistinct at this huge art installation outside Tokyo in Tochigi prefecture. The Genki-ro is a towering, furnace-like structure erected within a subterranean space, and the latest in a series of large, highly experiential works by artist Takashi Kuribayashi, whose practice explores the boundaries between nature and society, the body and everyday life. This stirring piece of art functions as both something to appreciate with multiple senses, and a literally immersive experience that could be described as a sauna fuelled by both herb-infused steam and Kuribayashi’s creative powers.

栗林隆
画像提供:TRAPOL「大谷元気炉六号基」

The Genki-ro (literally, ’the furnace of vitality’) stands down in a tree-enclosed, open-air space in Utsunomiya’s Oyamachi, on land usually closed to the public. Its custom-built furnace boils water infused with medicinal herbs, then sends the aromatic steam through a pipe and up out of a sculptural arrangement of wood resembling the hollowed-out base of a voluminous tree. The surrounding ‘cavern’ is pervaded with a sense of healthy revitalisation.

栗林隆
画像提供:TRAPOL「大谷元気炉六号基」

Basic admission to the Genki-ro space costs ¥1,500. A more stimulating experience, however, can be had for a ticket price of ¥3,500. This option allows entrance to a windowed, sauna-style room pumped full of the Genki-ro’s high-temperature steam.

Genki-ro
Photo: Trapol

‘Bathing’ in this pungent medicinal steam requires that you bring swimwear: visitors are generally unable to see even one metre around them, with their bodies becoming as damp as their senses are reinvigorated. Both standard and sauna-style experiences last 120 minutes, with three sessions held each day (9.30am, 12.30pm, 3pm). On-site reservations are possible, but advance online booking is advised. The venue is closed on Tuesday and Thursday.

栗林隆
画像提供: TRAPOL栗林隆「大谷元気炉六号基」

Kuribayashi, born in Nagasaki prefecture in 1968 and a graduate of Musashino Art University, has recently been working between Japan and Indonesia, following years of activity in Germany. He has previously exhibited at Germany’s Documenta, one of the world’s largest and most prestigious contemporary art events.

Genki-ro
Photo: Trapol

To get to the venue, take the Ueno-Tokyo Line through service and alight at Utsunomiya Station. From there, take the ‘立岩 45’ bus and get off at Saruta bus stop. Here’s the Google Map link for Genki-ro. The entire journey from Tokyo Station takes around two hours and 40 minutes.

For more information and to make a reservation, check Genki-ro’s website.

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