This tree-shaded former moat is lined with timber lamp-posts shaped like old city wall posts and offers a tranquil stroll. The western bank, Thanon Ratchinee, starts at an 1872 drinking fountain depicting Mae Phra Thorani, the goddess who wrung water from her hair to wash away demons trying to corrupt the Buddha. Heading south, you pass the Civil Court, a modernist landmark threatened with demolition, and the Italianate Ministry of Defence. Charoensri 34 Bridge is named for the 34th birthday of the fourth Chakri King, and displays the Thai numeral for four. Garlands hang from a Pig Memorial (1913) to King Rama VI's mother, who was born in the Year of the Pig. Donations for this bronze also paid for Saphan Pee Goon ('pig year bridge'). Beyond Wat Ratchapradit comes Saphan Hok, a 1982 reconstructed blend of four, old footbridges. By night, gays cruise this side of Saranrom Park, a leafy rest stop with fruit and drink vendors. At Ratchawong Police Station cross the canal.
From Pak Khlong Talad flower market, Thanon Atsadang skirts up the east bank. There stucco crumbling, fifth-reign shophouses flank Baan Mor market. After Wat Ratchabophit you circle around the outside of the Euro-classical Ministry of the Interior, the restaurant-filled Sam Phraeng community and the army surplus stores of Lang Krasuang Market - it is behind the Defence Ministry, after all. Finally, opposite Mae Thoranee stands the 1940s deco Royal Hotel.