The stalls burrow around the Indra and Bayoke hotels, burgeoning with textiles, lingerie, bags, Ts and street fashion. The seamstresses will stitch anything, while the African and Arab traders are reflected in the food available. Adjacent Pratunam Centre (across Phetchburi) and Platinum Mall (across Ratchaprarop) offer similar in air-con. Nothing to wear for Mardi Gras? Pratunam's best drag costumier, Sequin Queen (www.sequinqueen.com) can hand-sew a custom-made, spangled gown, complete with feathers.